(Personal reflections inspired by Bob Dylan songs)
Song: “Blowin’ In the
Wind”
Album: The Freewheelin’ Bob Dylan
Release Date: May 1963
Pilgrimage 3 of 3
Back in early March I visited the town of
Bob Dylan’s upbringing, Hibbing, Minnesota, while on a work trip to
International Falls, Minnesota, which I wrote about in Master Blueprint #
10. I took another Dylan-related journey
to Woodstock, in the Catskills of Upper State New York in early September, in
search of inspiration from that geographic cornerstone in his life, which I
wrote about in Master Blueprint # 34. And
my trilogy of Bob Dylan-centric destinations was completed this past weekend
when I traveled with my wife Nancy to Greenwich Village, in the heart of
Manhattan, New York City.
This was the 8th trip to the Big
Apple in my lifetime, all of which have been very memorable. Scattered among
them, I’d pretty much taken in all the major sightseeing locales: The Statue of
Liberty, the Empire State Building, Central Park, Rockefeller Center, Times
Square, the United Nations, the Museum of Natural History, Strawberry Fields,
Tribeca, Little Italy, Chinatown, Soho, Harlem, and of course, Greenwich
Village. I have written about a handful
of my excursions to NYC in these Music
and Memory blog pages over the past decade, including two indelible winter
road trips with my Canadian brethren back in the 80s, each of which was spent
homeless for a night (see Under the Big
Top # 7 here ). Another writeup that comes to mind was about
heading down with a crew of great friends to see the Who perform Quadrophenia at Madison Square Garden
(see Under the Big Top # 9 here ). And then there was the fantastic Ray Davies
show at the Westbeth Theatre that I witnessed with my great friend Mac, which
I’ve discussed here and there in these pages.
I drove through a blizzard to see that one.
One trip I’d not elaborated on was taken in
the spring of 2001, a few months before 9/11 (which, by the way is an event
which I have also written about….see Under
the Big Top # 37 here ). That was the last time I’d traveled to
Manhattan. I was with Nancy and the kids. Charlotte was only six at the time. Peter was two. I recently dug through the photos from that
trip, knowing I’d be heading back there soon.
One photo is of us on a ferry heading out to the Statue of Liberty. It was a beautiful day, not a cloud in the
sky. Behind us are the Twin Towers,
glimmering in the sunlight. It brings
back great memories, but it’s also eerie when I look at that photograph. 9/11 was also cloudless.
Seventeen years have passed since that trip. Our daughter is 24 now, our son 20. Empty Nesters, Nancy and I, with quite a bit
more freedom to hit the road. Not that I’m anywhere near there yet, but I now
have another angle on why people travel a lot in their retirement: Life on the road gets you to think out of the
box far more than life at home, which in turn can get the creative juices
flowing. From this perspective, travel
tends to feed itself. Nancy and I have
done a lot of travelling over the years, before and with children. Those experiences can now pay off in ways that
were unforeseen until these recent insights.
All we must do at this point is get back out there.
As mentioned in the last entry (Blueprint #
44), marriage is a blending of two individual’s values. which played out to a tee over the weekend,
seeing as Nancy and I tackled not one, but two locales for this trip, the other
being Asbury Park, New Jersey. This one was
Nancy’s contribution. She’s a big
Southside Johnny fan, he who is one of a handful of Jersey Shore rock stars who
got his feet wet playing at the local clubs along the boardwalk, including the
most famous of them all, the Iron Horse (where we got to spend some time
exploring that Friday evening). Nancy
and I have been to a good number of Southside Johnny’s shows in the Boston area
over the years, she more than myself.
He’s a helluva showman.
Anyhow, from a Bob Dylan ‘pilgrimage’ and
blog-writing perspective, this side trek rounded out the journey
perfectly. For example, Dylan’s image
was surprisingly cropping up all over the place in Asbury Park: Street art,
murals, postcards, and other depictions. I’m now thinking this must have had a
lot to do the man who inducted Dylan into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame: Bruce
Springsteen. The Boss is already a legend
in this neck of the woods. His image,
along with others in his E Street Band takes up about half the wall space at
the Iron Horse (Southside Johnny and the Asbury Juke cover a fair percentage
too). And so, if Bruce Springsteen looks
up to Bob Dylan, it must follow that so does most everyone else who lives
there.
Nancy and I strolled the lengthy boardwalk early
Saturday morning from the Asbury Park Convention Hall deep into neighboring
Ocean Grove and back, talking about Charlotte (now in Colombia), Peter’s
schoolyear, Hurricane Sandy, “Under the Boardwalk”, the value of sand dunes, and
the day ahead. Back at the Convention
Hall, which was just opening for business, (photo below) we split up for a bit
while shopping around. My mind wandered
to my blog world. I thought about Bob
Dylan getting detained by police while roaming the nearby streets in the
pouring rain about 10 years ago, looking into the windows of a property that
was for sale. It’s been speculated he
was in search of the home where Bruce Springsteen penned “Born to Run” ( Dylan-detained-Jersey-Shore ). I thought
about Dylan’s supposed ‘ode’ to Bruce Springsteen and his Jersey haunts, that
being the song “Tweeter and the Monkey Man” off the Traveling Wilburys first
album, which Joan Osborne performed brilliantly two nights earlier at the
Wilbur Theatre in Boston (again see Blueprint # 44). Was “Tweeter” and the Monkey Man” praise, or
parody? Bob Dylan’s not sayin’. Finally, I thought about the relationship
between these two men and the effect Dylan has had on so many of us,
Springsteen right there near the top of the list.
The first part of our journey complete, we then
drove north up the Garden State Parkway and Route 95, veering East on Route 78
into Jersey City, the Holland Tunnel minutes away. I’d never had this view of Manhattan before, usually
looking at it from the Northeast, North, or Northwest. It was impressive. The elevated highway view revealed the
immensity of the metropolis in front of us, from Battery Park to the George
Washington Bridge. There’s nowhere else like
it in the world to my knowledge. I
thought about Bob Dylan and what he must have felt like arriving here for the
first time, hitchhiking from the Midwest on a wing and a prayer, in the harsh
winter of 1961, a full year and a half before I was born. What was he doing
there amongst the populous right now, 57 years later, near the end of his
Beacon Theatre residency? I thought
about many of the other musicians and bands who adopted New York as their
home-away-from-home over the years, including British groups like the Rolling
Stones and the Who, and most notably, John Lennon. I thought about those earlier treks of mine
into New York. I thought about Spider Man
swinging from high rise to high rise, and all the great movies filmed there. Aside from those random thoughts, Nancy and I
were having fun, laughing at the cars in the cash lines as we cruised into the
tunnel, having just gotten our first ever EZ Pass the day before (we the
hapless ones to that date).
Arriving in Manhattan we veered north a few
blocks into Greenwich Village and immediately found a metered parking spot near
the intersection of Bleecker and LaGuardia. We were here! I thought I would be able to rely on my
earlier instincts with this area, but in many ways, it was as if I were tackling
the Village for the first time. The
familiarity was vague, which may have had something to do with coming at it
from a different direction. Anyhow,
right in front of our car was The Bitter End, where Bob Dylan’s Rolling Thunder
Review band took shape in the mid-70s.
Great place to start. It turned
out this was ‘open mic’ day. Musicians
and their guitars were signing up and lining up, waiting for the place to
open. Nancy and I got in line with them. When the doors opened, we took in the aura of
the place and watched the first musician perform. Her music was a bit of a downer, she obviously
struggling, singing about selling out to make ends meet. But she was singing from the heart and she
was passionate. Good luck there, young
lady. Many struggling musicians got
their start on that stage, some who became quite famous. Hopefully you will get to where you want to
be too.
As already mentioned, I was very much aware
of Bob Dylan performing that nite at the Beacon Theatre on the Upper West Side,
and we dabbled with the idea of heading that way later in the day to see if we
could scalp tickets. The fact of the
matter was that, like my Woodstock adventure, very little was planned for this
trip, partly because we were not sure until the last minute if it would pan out
due to other factors back home, and partly because… that’s the way we operate. Amazing things can happen when you wing it,
or they can fall flat. It’s a crap
shoot. But truthfully, the Dylan show was not my focus. Being with Nancy in Greenwich Village was my
focus; dining, shopping, doing whatever.
A melding of our values was my focus. Besides, I’ve seen so many great shows
over the years, including Bob on five occasions. And so, I vowed I was not
going to let that whisper get too loud in my ear.
Despite this inner declaration, the notion
was still tugging at me. However, at the
same time I was beginning to feel the effects of the prior 5 weeks; work travel
(see Blueprint # 41), concerts, Thanksgiving, burning the candle at both ends,
people hacking all around me all that time.
My body was yelling at me; cold, flu… something was happening. I was suppressing it, but for how long? We had not booked a place to stay yet. That was both good and bad. Good because it gave us flexibility. Bad because it seeped into our thinking more
than we would have liked. We are usually
good in this sort of situation, but Manhattan is a different beast than
virtually anywhere else we’d made last minute decisions like this over the
years. There were a few options for us;
places to stay. But they were pricey to
say the least. Worth it in most
situations was my thinking. But in my
state?
We chewed on our options as we roamed the
streets, taking in our surroundings, and soon found ourselves in Washington
Square Park (photo below) which was full of life. Then over to the Washington Square Park
Hotel, which is no longer the dirt-cheap place it used to be when Bob Dylan
used it as a virtual squat house upon arriving in the city. I thought about Joan Baez’ song “Diamonds and
Rust”, which is about her romance with Bob Dylan and which mentions this hotel. I thought about what that namesake Park in
front of it must have been like in the 60s. A few blocks further down we passed
the iconic location where Bob Dylan and Suze Rotolo were photographed for the
cover of Dylan’s second album The
Freewheelin’ Bob Dylan, the first song on it being this entry’s Blueprint. I was feeling the vibes.
As darkness settled in, we made our way
down to Soho for some Christmas shopping, and then up over to Little Italy,
where we found a nice Italian restaurant for dinner. My appetite was there, but I was fading, with
the rain now coming down hard too, and the forecast for Sunday being more of
the same. We were slowly concluding that
this was our last downtown stop of the day, and so, we took our time, and
enjoyed it. Then we headed back to our
car.
We flirted with the idea of stopping
somewhere on the way home and staying the nite, perhaps taking in some place in
Connecticut or upper-state New York the next day, but in the end, we drove all
the way back to our home in Pepperell Massachusetts. For a good stretch we listened to the
excellent soundtrack to the even more superb movie “I’m Not There”. Nancy is not as enamored by Bob Dylan’s
vocals as I am. Not by a long shot. But when the cover of “Ballad of a Thin Man”
came on she made the comment that she liked Dylan’s vocals in the original. I thought, ‘now that’s some very keen insight’, seeing as I’ve made the same
observation myself. There is hope!
My mind wandered again as we drove late
into the nite. I thought once more about
my last Blueprint entry (# 44) and the song of choice from it, “High Water (for
Charley Patton)”. It’s a song of such
foreboding. One contemplative aspect
related to the song is that the album it’s on, “Love and Theft” - which includes many other foreboding tunes - was
released on 9/11/2001. Even though I’ve
always known this fact, I did not bring it up for that entry, seeing as it did
not fit my storyline. It does here though.
How has the world changed in the 17 years
since I was last in New York, back in 2001, months before 9/11? I recalled a Rolling Stone interview with Bob
Dylan week’s after that album release and that catastrophic event. I searched for and found it a few days after
settling in back home this week. As I had remembered, this reread once again revealed
Dylan’s comments to be very poignant throughout the article. It’s a real time capsule of a piece. Near the end of the interview Bob Dylan was
asked about 9/11. First, he quoted a verse
from the Rudyard Kipling poem “Gentlemen-Rankers”, which goes:
“We
have done with Hope and Honour, we are lost to Love and Truth
We are dropping down the ladder rung by rung
And the measure of our torment is the measure
of your youth
God help us, for we knew the worst too young!”
(I recalled showing this to my Dad back in
those heavy, heavy weeks after 9/11. Dad
was quiet after reading this). Bob Dylan then went on to say, “If anything my
mind would go back to young people at a time like this”.
Young people. My son and my daughter
today. American, Iraqi, and Afghani youth, on the cusp of fighting their parents
and grandparents battles after 9/11 (I’m sure Dylan was referring to all of
them with that quote above). And of
course, Bob Dylan when he released The
Freewheelin Bob Dylan in 1963, at the tender age of 21, along with its
powerful opener, “Blowin’ in the Wind” ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWwgrjjIMXA
) which was his true introduction to the free world. Unlike those Gentlemen-Rankers of yore, Bob
Dylan not only knew the worst too young, he expressed it, perfectly, in that
very first hit, and he never let it go. I
am grateful for having recognized this. My
visits to New York City, Woodstock and Hibbing contributed to that recognition. I’m grateful for that too.
- Pete